Half way into a Friday evening happy hour, Leigh mentioned that the following weekend would be a rare 4 day weekend. Already having Monday off, her office was closed the previous Friday. 4 days. In August. What to do.
Which was why, 6 days and 12 hours later, we were up before dawn, barreling up I-5 with two sea kayaks strapped on my Chevy Malibu (the most boring car in the world) with a trunk full of gear in dry bags.
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| If you look carefully Mom is waving a flag or towel from the deck as we passed by on the Anacortes to Sidney run |
By 1:30 pm we had sampled both the Washington State and BC Ferry systems and were on Salt Spring Island, largest of the Gulf Islands in Canada. We stopped for some additional information at a kayak store in Ganges, then out to Fernwood to launch the kayaks for a 3ish mile paddle to Wallace Island, our destination.
Wallace Island was named after the Captain of the HMS Trincomalee, Cap't Wallace Houston. And no, I don't know why Trincomali Channel, named after the HMS Trincomalee, shares all letters save the final vowel with its namesake.
In any case we crossed over to Wallace Island, carried gently north on the evening flood. We poked our noses in Conover Cove, well known to Leigh who was nearly through her book, 'Once Upon an Island' by David Conover. Conover cove was its summer self. Docks full, several boats anchored and stern tied and tents popping like mushrooms on the shore. Nice, picturesque, but busy.
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| The women from the Comox Valley had their flotilla on the beach |
We were aiming for the far northern cove near Chivers Point. More indentation than actual cove. There were supposedly 9 camp sites, all with raised tent platforms. We found 8, 5 of which were in use by a group of women paddlers from the Comox valley and one with a couple from Victoria. There was room in the Inn, but just barely.
We planned to stay 2 nights and we found out that the women planned to leave the following day so we arranged to move our camp forward when they departed. Their departure was timed to the arrival of the ranger who had helped them evacuate one of their own the previous day. She had fallen and fractured her wrist so her and another paddler had left the island leaving two kayaks behind. The ranger was arriving to tow the two empty kayaks off the island.
Despite being nearly full, the Chivers point campsites offer plenty of privacy and we climbed up to the western ridge to view the sunset. A deer was quite brave, munching foliage as we sipped our wine.
We decided to split the following day up into two pieces. A morning paddle followed by an afternoon walk to the other end of the island. We ended up in a figure eight pattern, circumnavigating the 'Secretary Islands' and Mowgi island. About a 4 miles paddle and a perfect distance. Leigh felt she could have gone much farther!
Here's a Jelly fish, a Moon Jelly fish, I think shot from below with the go pro.
Beautiful day for paddling
After the paddle we moved camp to the front of the cove, then made the 2ish mile walk south to Conover cove. The walk itself is nice and a great way to stretch the legs. We went by what could have been Conover's own jeep. Now a relic rusting in the meadow.
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| Interior decorations have been added to one of Conover's old buildings |
Conover Cove itself is a nice spot, but a bit of a let down on this particular day. It was crowded - both with boats and tents. It seemed to be 'the' place to be on the island, but the folks camping there shared little with the Comox valley women or ourselves. They were younger, flashier, and if they wanted to congregate in Conover cove, more power to them. Our quiet spot at the north end of the island awaited. It felt as though experienced gravitated towards Chivers point. So we returned.
By the time we got back, the cove was empty. All to ourselves and we had the best campsite. Near the beach.
A quiet happy hour commenced, but then a whaler rounded the cove and at slow speed checked it out. Then crunched as it hit a rock. Carrying 4 millennials from Bellingham, they carried their large beer filled coolers to an unauthorized camping spot right on the point and proceeded to launch their drone for sunset pictures.
At which point my emotions flipped between irritation and envy. Irritation that our quiet little domain was being disrupted, but in truth they were nice kids. And they had taken an open 17 foot boat from Bellingham up the into the Gulf Islands. Upon reflection, they had more in common with the recently departed women from Comox than they did with the crowd at Conover cove. They had every bit of right as we did to this great view. In the for what it's worth department, I quickly made my peace with their presence. And I have a hunch they got great shots with the drone.
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| Our Kayaks and their whaler at sunset |
In the morning the millennials had left, leaving us to our morning coffee on the point. To their credit, there was no sign they had camped on the point. They left no trace. Good on them.
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| One of my favorite shots of Leigh, sipping coffee and taking in the view |
After 2 nights on the island the plan was to paddle back to Saltspring, find a camping spot, then head into Ganges.
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Repacking was easier than packing. With backpacks, most of the 'fiddling' is at home. You get the right stuff in the right pockets/compartments and when you hit the trailhead you hoist your pack and go. Kayaking is a little different. I'm quite sure that the 'system' we refined with backpacking will some day be as comfortable for kayaking. It'll be a different system, but repetition will make it easier. Right now we have to stop and think about each bag. We're getting there, but just not 'there' yet.
Leigh is becoming a natural. The more miles that go under her keel, the more relaxed she looks. Faster too!!
Kayaking offers up front and personal views of wild life.
Once back on Saltspring, we headed towards Ruckle Provincial park on the south side of the island. Irish emigrant Henry Ruckle first homesteaded there in 1872 and one hundred years later, the family donated the land to the BC government. The family still works a farm on part of the island, but we had our choice of campsites, most of which had a terrific view!
Our tent. Our other tent -- the one for car camping.
Boat viewing from Ruckle Provincial park is great.
BC ferries go right in front.
View from the tent.
We intentionally set ours back a bit to get some privacy under some trees, but the view was still great.
Ganges was next and we hit some art galleries, then had some great appetizers at the oyster catcher bar.
We had one more outing ahead of us, Butchart Gardens, but I'm getting ahead of myself. There are so many pictures, they belong in a different post.
We've hit upon a recipe that works for us. Mix 2 parts remoteness with 1 part civilization. Combine and I think we'd be happy. Whether that's 2 nights hiking in a tent and one night at B&B, or perhaps 2 days kayaking and one day at a hotel or perhaps 2 nights anchored and one night at a dock, there's a mix that works. Perhaps in many years we'll reverse the ratio -- but for now, mix exercise with occasional hot water flush toilets and it works.
More on Butchart later....
